Our global population is increasing and surfing is one of the fastest growing sports on the planet. This means, inevitably, that more surfing lineups will become more crowded.

Bucket lists are stupid, because all they really do is set you up for failure. When someone tells me about all the adventurous things they have on their bucket list, I eventually start to imagine them old and gray, lying on their death bed clutching a crinkled up sheet of paper with only a handful of the items checked off. They are not satisfied or fulfilled. They are bitter.

Surfing is great way to keep yourself fit, but like any sport, it can also take its toll on your body. You need to look after yourself to ensure you will still be surfing ten, twenty, or even thirty or more years in the future.

When I was introduced to surfing I was told it’s better than sex. Having never surfed before I thought the guy telling me this was a total madman. But after a few sessions borrowing his spare board and wettie, I was hooked.